Some Kind of World Traveler

June 16, 2022

Blog On Pause

Unfortunately I’ve been notified by WordPress that I’ve used up all my media storage space, so I can’t post any more photos here for now. So I’ll be posting on Facebook for the foreseeable future and will deal with the blog at a later date.

June 13, 2022June 13, 2022

Arles Way Day 14 – Bouisset to Lavergne – 6/13/22

A shorter day today – only about 13 miles. It had rained on the night, so I was anticipating muddy trails. But I walked mostly on well-drained gravel roads with no mud. And for the most part I traveled downhill. Lots of forest walking with occasional views.

View of Boissezon as I descended into the valley. I was glad the way didn’t take me up the hill to the church.

View from where I stopped to eat a nice juicy orange.

The road I took toward the farm where I’m staying.

The rather funky but charming farmhouse. It’s on a hillside, so this is the upper-level entrance at the back.

Little fish pond at the lower front of the house. It has very vocal frogs.

We enjoyed dinner out in the garden. And I discovered a delicious French dessert: fresh strawberries, lightly sugared, with a bit of red wine poured over.

June 12, 2022June 13, 2022

Arles Way Day 13 – La Salvetat-sur-Agout to Bouisset – 6/12/22

The parting of the Ways: Yesterday I wrote about the 3 of us who’ve been at the same hostels for about 11 days. Today, however, Ricardo stopped in Anglès, I went on 8 kilometers farther to Bouisset , and Guy went even farther ahead. Perhaps we’ll meet up again down the Chemin a ways.

It was a pleasant day for walking. The way went over many hills but none were very steep. The open areas gave nice views of the rolling countryside and the woods gave welcome shade.

Cows checking me out from a forest meadow.

Me, up on a plateau of farmland. The white & red marks on the post are what show us the route to follow.

I arrived in Anglès before noon and went to the boulangerie to buy a sandwich, but they had none. So instead I had a pain su chocolat and a coffee eclair. Plus some folks stopped to talk with me about my walk and gave me a couple of apricots.

I had planned to stop in Anglès, but since it was so early I decided to continue on to Bouisset. I’m at a lovely old farmhouse out in the countryside, where upon arrival the hostess Jaqueline and I had beers out on the shady terrace before I showered and washed the day’s clothes. Jaqueline is very friendly and helped me make reservations for the next couple of days. Now I’m relaxing until I join her for an aperitif and dinner.

June 11, 2022June 11, 2022

Arles Way Day 12 – Murat-Sur-Vebre to Salvetat-Sur-Agout. 6/11/22

An easier day since I’ve now come down from the mountains of the Haut Languedoc. There are still some big hills but they’re easier to surmount. And though there are no more mountain views, I’m enjoying the forests and rolling farmlands.

Nice stone building (for storage?) as I entered a village.

For about an hour I followed The shore, more or less closely, of a large lake and ended up at Villelongue at the end of it. I sat and ate a big orange, which was SO refreshing!

Fishermen along the shore. I had seen big carp splashing in the shallows.

Further along the was a lovely little pond.

It had warmed up quite a bit, but I was mostly in the shade – and when I wasn’t there was a breeze.

When I got to Salvetat-sur -Agout I spotted Guy and Ricardo outside a brasserie and stopped for a panaché. The 3 of us have stayed at the same lodgings for many days now. Others have come and gone, but we’ve kept on at the same daily pace.

Guy is from Normandy and speaks only French and Ricardo is from Argentina and speaks only Spanish. A phenomenon that occurs when I’ve been speaking mostly French is that I find it extremely difficult to switch to Spanish. So I’ve been communicating better with Guy than with Ricardo. We each walk at our own pace, sometimes leapfrogging past each other on our walks and then meeting up at our lodging.

About 15 miles today, with only 1264 feet of total elevation gain.

June 10, 2022June 11, 2022

Arles Way Day 11 – St. Gervais -Sur-Mare to Murat-sur- Vebre 6/10/22

It turned out to be a delightful day for walking – sunny but with a breeze and plenty of shade. The steeper sections of trail weren’t vey long and the mountain views were great.

With this view as I neared my destination I felt I was about to enter Hobbiton.

About 16 miles, with 2950 feet of total elevation gain.

June 9, 2022June 11, 2022

Arles Way Day 10 – La Seguinerie to St. Gervais-Sur-Mare – 6/9/22

It was a taxing start today, with a steeper than usual climb up out of the valley.. But I was amused by the background audio, like yesterday’s, of baas and bells as sheep were being herded up to their summer pastures.

Before too long I was on open forest roads – and in chilly, blustery winds. I actually wore my fleece for most of the day and enjoyed the cool temperatures.

View back down to the valley where I started.

I met up with a handsome, bearded forestry worker a couple of times. The first time he pointed out a patch of ripe wild strawberries for me. Miam Miam! (French for yum yum !). The second time, just as I sat down at a picnic table for a snack, he pulled up in his truck and deliberately did other things rather than start up the noisy weed whacked . He let me know that I had no need to hurry (What he actually said in English was “No speed!!”).

I saw lots of wild foxgloves today – a favorite.

Another lovely view, from where I stopped and rested.

Medieval bridge at the entrance to St. Gervasio-Sur-Mare.

Interesting house by the bridge. Perhaps it served for collecting bridge tolls.

Four of us stayed at the municipal gite. The restaurant we had expected was closed, so we went to the épicerie and bought food and wine for a shared pasta and salad meal.

About 17 miles today, with 2,780 ft of total elevation gain.

June 8, 2022

Arles Way Day 9 – Lodeve to La Seguinerie – 6/8/22

If it seems that every recent day starts with a long uphill trek, that’s because most lodging is located in the villages and the villages are mostly in the valleys. It was a pleasant climb up from Lodeve, with a wonderful breeze – and the views were lovely.

Here’s the panoramic view I got a the road switchbacked up to the top of the ridge.

The official route today would have been very long, but we all took the shorter alternative trail. Luckily Bruno had given us guests a detailed description of the route (otherwise I would have gotten lost!)

In contrast to the long, meandering route up, the alternative trail descended pretty directly, following a mountain stream through the woods.

In the village of Lunas I found a little cafe where I enjoyed a coffee ( I had been hoping for a pastry to go with it, but none was to be found). The village straddle the little river – and the château on the right is now a restaurant.

The village church, unlike most others I’ve come upon lately, was open so I stepped inside and admired some stained glass windows.

I still had a little ways to go after Lunas, and as I approached the last town before my destination, I saw the church way up on the hill and hoped the way wouldn’t make me go up there – but of course it did, and the church was locked.

But I was soon at my lodging and got settled in , going through my usual ritual of showering, washing the day’s clothes and relaxing. An extra treat was fresh cherries from the host’s own trees. Before dinner the host is going to drive us guests down into town so we can get provisions for tomorrow’s trek – there are no bars, cafes or stores along the way.

Today’s walk was about 14 miles, with 1900 feet of total elevation gain.

June 7, 2022June 7, 2022

Chemin d’Arles Day 8 – St. Jean-de-La-Blaquière to Lodève – 6/7/22

Another start with a long climb but not difficult (though my legs were rather tired from yesterday’s trek) It was going to be a much shorter day and there was a wonderful breeze.

Up on the ridge, a path through the pines.

Also on the ridge I made a little diversion to see the Dolmen de La Bruyére, a Neolithic burial site

The Balconies of Soumont. A long line of flat-topped cliffs.

Large, green and very long-tailed lizard on one of the balconies.

I got to Lodève, down in the valley. after about 11 miles of walking and only 1600 feet of elevation gain. I checked into my hostel, Chez Bruno, cleaned up and now I’m sipping a café alongé outside, where I just ate a huge salad with lots of veggies – and 3 different French cheeses!

Lodève’s unusual cathedral, in its parking lot. So far on this walk most of the churches have been locked.

For our dinner we walked to the outskirts of town where our host is building a new modern house and ate in the garden by the wisteria.

June 6, 2022June 7, 2022

Arles WayDay 7: St. Guilhem-le-Desert to St. Jean-de-La-Blaquière- 6/6/22

I got an early start since today started with a long climb. I gained about 1420 feet in a couple of hours- but it was still cool, the trail was nicely switchbacked and there was a wonderful breeze.

View of what was ahead as I started out. I didn’t climb the cliffs, but I ended up above the ones to the left.

I added a bit of mileage to get this view back down the valley. The cliff on the right is the one with the mornings light I shot from below.

Ruins of medieval fortifications as I came down into the valley on the other side of the ridge.

Stone building seen as I started the second climb. Most of it was more gradual than the first until I got near the top and was quite tired and the day had really warmed up. I got out my umbrella to use as a parasol and that helped – but I was still a difficult trek. I think I drank almost a gallon of water! (Luckily I was able to refresh my supply from a cemetery spigot). But I took it easy, rested in the shade, and splashed water on my face at a little spring I passed. And I was very happy when I reached the hostel – after about 16 miles and 3,000 feet of elevation gain.

At the hostel the hostess was very helpful. In France many businesses are closed Sunday afternoon and all day Monday. But she had us come to her house for beers on the terrace and she got the owner of the little shop to open for us. So I’m all set for breakfast and have food for tomorrow’s shorter hike in the mountains.